Trip Report: Tribal Rite via New Dawn. 12 days on the wall. Sept 2013

Trip Report: Tribal Rite via New Dawn Sept 2013 I went up to Yosemite with some free time right after my birthday in Sept, 2013 looking for something long and big. Loving solo-aid climbing and fresh off my ascent of Afroman a month earlier, I decided to try the most aid-intensive moderate up the front of El Cap. New Dawn to Tribal Rite fit the bill perfectly. Here's the TR with beta* from that trip.(*You’ve been warned.) Day 0 Wed Sept 11th One of my favorite parts of bigwalling is the preparation process. It’s easy to get lost in the minutia of gathering beta, organizing gear and most importantly, preparing and packaging food! I like to put my food into two-day ziplock bags. This makes it easier to pull one bag out for two days rations while leaving the rest of the food buried deep in the haul bag. [photoid=350111]…

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Horns of Jericho (Direct Start Variation) – First Ascent Trip Report

At that time Joshua pronounced this solemn oath: “Cursed before the Lord is the one who undertakes to rebuild this city, Jericho: “At the cost of his firstborn son, he will lay its foundations; at the cost of his youngest, he will set up its gates.” - Book of Joshua, Chapter 6, Verse 26   History Once the hangover from New Years Eve passed, I found myself obsessed with a possible direct start to Jericho. The route deserved something to give climbers the option of more aiding and easier hauling and rapping. I pored over my photos and zoomed in on Xrez to plan my attempt. There would be multiple possibilities that I’d only be able to decide upon once I got to the base. My goal was to find a line that was consistent in feel to the pitches on Jericho above. I wanted, if possible, to use the same gear rack, same…

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TR – Jericho Wall 5.8 A2+ – Second Ascent Trip Report

"When the trumpets sounded, the army shouted, and at the sound of the trumpet, when the men gave a loud shout, the wall collapsed; so everyone charged straight in, and they took the city." - Book of Joshua, Chapter 6, Verse 20   Approach We hit the parking lot of glacier point at 9am. The temperature was mirrored by the ice and snow still on the asphalt. I noticed that the cold air outside of the Diablo Rock Gym in Concord where we met that morning about five hours prior was much warmer than the freezing breeze that accompanied the Yosemite morning sunlight. I checked my bag to make sure that I had enough toe warmers to facilitate hours freezing in my pair of ladders and double-checked that I had extra pairs of gloves and beanies. My goal for this climb was to stay warm and avoid the popsicle-at-the-belay history that…

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