Fail Falling Blog Bailing is my favorite form of ascent

Fail Falling Blog
Wet Denim Daydream snippets
Wet Denim Daydream snippets

Turning the roof was a grunting, awkward flailfest. Not technically hard placement-wise, but with my feet spinning like a boat propellor, it was not something I was used to. Now that I think about it, it felt similar to Kor Roof but not as easy. Once you were able to get your toes against the […]

Ethics and Mud n Crud
Ethics and Mud n Crud

I have no words… A product of climbing focusing on ability over history. A whole generation that stands on the shoulders of those who came before, never looking down, only grinding their feet back and forth. What’s strange about this story is that the desire for “adventure” usually comes with a desire for history imo. […]

Starting out
Starting out

I spent my childhood going to the Pinns, (and J-Tree, Yosemite, Death Valley, Red Rocks, etc.) with my father (a herpetologist who taught at USC, UCSF, and other lesser known institutions) and spent all of my time there, hiking, and catch/releasing lizards and snakes. There were a few memories that I have of seeing climbers […]

Afroman and Outer Negative Fail
Afroman and Outer Negative Fail

Well, post of shame. hiked up to Afroman this weekend intending to fix to 4. Man was that pack heavy on my back – was getting 250′ or so on the uphill before I had to stop for a breather, stupid heavy beaks. Got through pitch 1 fine with a bit of groveling through spiny […]

Trip Report – Los Banditos – Machete Ridge – Pinnacles West Side

Trip Report – Los Banditos – Machete Ridge – Pinnacles West Side  So with the closures looming and the valley a bit chilly for the tastes of the lovely lady Dixie, we show up at the West Side parking lot with a late 11:00am SF/LA start. Disaster is flirted with when Dixie asks if I […]

Gardening on Los Banditos – Machete Ridge, Pinnacles West

Gardening on Los Banditos From second pitch bolts I am ten white pins at the end of a bowling alley. Dixie leads above me up a water streak of black moss, leaves, dirt, and breaking rock. 5.7 run out climbing with the optional knob slung here and there. I hold the printout of the route […]

Rapping From the Anchors of Leaning Tower Traverse (Start of West Face)
Rapping From the Anchors of Leaning Tower Traverse (Start of West Face)

As I stumble and hobble my way around today on legs that did not fair well from the approach, the first two pitches of West Face, and the descent from Leaning Tower, I attempt to salvage my efforts with a trip report about getting from the start of West Face to the base of Leaning […]

Beta for the Follower in the First Pitches of Leaning Tower

When cleaning pitches like the first two of West Face of Leaning Tower… — Take 48” dynex runner and girth hitch it to your belay loop. Make sure you have a fifi hook — West Face pitch 1 and 2 have a looooot of bolts on each pitch, ideally, your leader will not be clipping the rope to all of them, […]

How to “Tee off” Whilst Aiding

I (sometimes) tee off** if I need support for reaching the next piece. ** Teeing off is where you will take your upper foot, fold it in front of your aiders to make a figure 4 shape, then trap it in place with the pressure of the adier being cammed into the wall by your lower foot. I’m assuming […]

Upon Getting Lost on the Leaning Tower Approach.

Reversing your path is how a person can grow eyes on the back of their head. Spoons in the trail expose faint forks, a slice in the path that can add minutes to your hike like pats of butter adding grams of fat to a meal. The bloated approach, like the fatty meal: solo aiding […]

March 2018
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