Bail up

I remind myself about the ground up ethic of the Pinnacles as I stand on top of the balconies. I’m looking for bolts that can make it possible to rap down to a previous high point I’d previously made it to on one of the Pinnacles infamous aid routes. From the top, I can see why it has a ground up ethic, multitudes of broken chunks of rock, fractured and connected to the conglomerate mud by fault lines and dust. Better to start from the ground without knowing about the shooting gallery waiting above. I return to the Pinnacles year after year, shared with the Condors scratching their way back from oblivion through generations of lead bullets and half-eaten plastic trash fed to them by their parents. We have joint custody. The autumn and winter are mine and the spring and summer belong to them. It is much like every…

Took two attempt to send Mustache (took a nice 8 foot fall onto my back in the first thin section when a knifeblade came out - none of the placements below were worth anything but bodyweight.) When I sent it the weekend before last it took me about 5 hours to sort through the entire thing. We have some pictures but haven't got around to making a TR yet. Here's some snippets. Have worked on Premeditated twice. First time I wasn't feeling the traverse from 2nd to third bolt and came down. Second time made it around the corner right below the thin section when I had to create an anchor and come back down when some rangers came by and informed me that the closures were in effect. My honest to god response was "I thought the closures don't generally start until February" This is what I was thinking when I was deciding the night…