Pinnacles Aiding

Pinnacles Aiding

Took two attempt to send Mustache
(took a nice 8 foot fall onto my back in the first thin section when a knifeblade came out – none of the placements below were worth anything but bodyweight.)
When I sent it the weekend before last it took me about 5 hours to sort through the entire thing. We have some pictures but haven’t got around to making a TR yet. Here’s some snippets.

Have worked on Premeditated twice.
First time I wasn’t feeling the traverse from 2nd to third bolt and came down. Second time made it around the corner right below the thin section when I had to create an anchor and come back down when some rangers came by and informed me that the closures were in effect.
My honest to god response was “I thought the closures don’t generally start until February” This is what I was thinking when I was deciding the night before where to go – the main problem was that I didn’t connect the ideas of “February” with the actual date which was “February 12th”
Needless to say I felt incredibly stupid as it was an honest stupid mistake on my part. The rangers were understanding and let us clean the gear but we had to leave the intermediate gear anchor to come down off of so it remains there until the closure is lifted.
I’m hoping no one grabs it but i have a feeling not too many people are going to jump on Premeditated too quickly after the closure is lifted. That route literally aged me. 4 hours of “A1” and I was absolutely fried. (I just bought a bunch more screamers and aid screamers for my final push – next time I believe I’ll be able to send it)

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Mustache 5.5 A3 – Discovery Wall – Pinnacles East

 

 

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