MP.com Posts about Bigwall Prep
I avoided work for a bit answering a question on Mountain Project’s Bigwall Forum about prewall prep. Felt like a good response came from it so I’ll post it here.
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August 21, 2014
Two New Bigwall FAs!
No time to write up something bigger just yet. Blue Collar V A3 - Hourglass Wall, Yosemite (With Mucci and Bosque) Bigwalls forum post for Blue Collar Blood & Coin V 5.7 A3 (solo) - Lost Brother, Yosmite Bigwalls forum post for Blood & Coin
July 7, 2014
Tricks with beak tips and enchanted heads in closed seams
"Where is the line between chiseling and silver-lining a failed attempt at a beak tip?" So the small seam on my Blood and Coin route ("Sansa's Folly" pitch) were barely there, just small holes in the seam that a #1 pecker would sometimes fit and sometimes not. When it wouldn't fit I decided to rivet rather than chisel a head. Later on after talking to Mucci and rapping past the section over and over I realized that the holes left behind that wouldn't accept the pecker (and fucked up my beak tips) were ready-made chiseled placements for #0 or #1 heads. Maybe not the best for bigger climbers, but for skinny climbers like me, this could be something to prevent unneeded holes without resorting to intentional chiseling of the rock. Thus, one can come across a small seam with the intent to place #1 beak tips, if the beak tip…
June 17, 2014
TR: Solo on Tribal Rite via New Dawn: 12 days on the wall.
Here’s my TR of my Tribal Rite via New Dawn Solo. Sorry for the crosspost, it’s a bit of a hassle to reformat the text and images.
Two parts because it’s too many characters for one forum post. (more…)
April 2, 2014
Trip Report: Tribal Rite via New Dawn. 12 days on the wall. Sept 2013
Trip Report: Tribal Rite via New Dawn Sept 2013 I went up to Yosemite with some free time right after my birthday in Sept, 2013 looking for something long and big. Loving solo-aid climbing and fresh off my ascent of Afroman a month earlier, I decided to try the most aid-intensive moderate up the front of El Cap. New Dawn to Tribal Rite fit the bill perfectly. Here's the TR with beta* from that trip.(*You’ve been warned.) Day 0 Wed Sept 11th One of my favorite parts of bigwalling is the preparation process. It’s easy to get lost in the minutia of gathering beta, organizing gear and most importantly, preparing and packaging food! I like to put my food into two-day ziplock bags. This makes it easier to pull one bag out for two days rations while leaving the rest of the food buried deep in the haul bag. [photoid=350111]…
March 31, 2014